Stopping in Beaumont

Running a little ahead of schedule on our way across the Gulf Coast, we decided to spend a couple of nights in the East Texas town of Beaumont.

On January 10, 1901, cattle were grazing on Spindletop Hill. Birds were singing, the sun was out and another easy winter’s day had started.

The rumble was barely perceptible deep in the earth. If it was noticed, it only seemed like a puzzling, unusual sound that had not been heard before. The rumble intensified, the sound becoming unmistakable, if not explainable. Spindletop Hill was giving birth to an entirely new era. Oil !

The Lucas gusher, as it would later be named, exploded with such force that a column of oil gushed hundreds of feet into the air of the calm winter’s morning. Nine days later the column was still gushing at a rate of 100,000 barrels per day, still shooting 200 feet into the air.

The population of Beaumont moved from 7,000 souls in January of 1901 to 30,000 in March of the same year. Over the next few short years, six major wells and dozens of newly chartered oil companies occupied Spindletop Hill. East Texas made America the richest oil resource in the world.

Today, Beaumont still shows it’s history with every facet of the oil industry evident.

Perhaps even more so, Beaumont shows evidence of cultural arts, outdoor playgrounds, and people who are said to be as spicy as the Beaumont restaurants.

And speaking of restaurants, whether you like spicy craw fish, tangy barbecue, or Tex-Mex cuisine, you will have no trouble finding it here. Cajun, Creole, Mexican, just name your spice and sit down and enjoy. And if spicy is not your choice, gulf seafood and Texas beef are equally good options.

We had a very pleasant afternoon ride around Beaumont, Nederland, and Port Arthur, viewing the refineries, the chemical facilities, and oil industry in action. And of course there’s the bayous, the bird habitats, and coastal beaches. Just a fine place to spend a couple of retirement days.

Port Arthur

When you talk of Port Arthur, the subject of oil companies, refineries, and oil rigs quickly comes to dominate the conversation. Oil related structures are everywhere. Somewhat depressed right now with the price of oil so low, many of the facilities are standing idle, awaiting the return of better oil prices.

Sitting along the east Texas coast of the Gulf of Mexico, Port Arthur is a city of contrasts.

Shipping terminals, beautiful scenic waterways, palm trees, and a rich history make up this area. Finding a bench along the intercoastal waterway and watching the ships going and coming is a fascinating way to spend an hour or so.

Setting a goal of finding the world’s best gumbo can keep you occupied for days. Cajun and Creole restaurants and dives dot the bayous offering the best and perhaps the worst imaginable cuisine.

We found a little spot called “Lucky’s” along a bayou and wondered which direction the name would take us. Would it be “Lucky” in that it was a fortunate find, or “Lucky” in that you might be

“Lucky” to leave alive. Turns out that “Lucky” is a robust, red-faced, jolly, friendly and welcoming Cajun, who serves up a steaming bowl of gumbo that is amazing. Today it was a shrimp, crab, oyster, chicken, andouille, concoction with just enough okra to make it interesting. There might have been some other indistinguishable ingredients as well. Lucky said he forgot whether he had put in the hot sauce, so he put in some more just to be sure. He hadn’t forgotten….!

A drive through Sea Rim State Park completed our visit to Port Arthur. Don’t expect the sand to be like Gulf Shores or the Florida panhandle. It is brown with lots of seaweed littered about. But you can’t have everything. At least there’s Lucky’s.

There’s also the Museum of the Gulf coast where you can see memorabilia from natives Janis Joplin, and the great football coach Jimmy Johnson. We are not sure, but you might also find something from the legendary Glen E. Miller, who claims Port Arthur as his childhood home.